As it was for many of us, 2008/09 was a rough year. For me, the challenge came in the form of a divorce. I decided to plan this cycling trip from Canada to Mexico so I'd have something to look forward to while I dealt with affidavits, attorney fees and the other annoyances of my life. Knowing that I'd doing my favorite activities, cycling, camping and traveling for a month through some the country's most beautiful regions fueled my cycling passion. It also kept my spirits up. Preparing for the trip also enticed me to commute on my bike through the winter, a real step for me, a fair weather rider. Strange, but even in the dark winter months, my commute became the highlight of my day. How weird is that?!
I purchased a Surly Long Haul Trucker, which is a robust touring bike with a steel frame. I added a Brooks saddle figuring that it would be broken in before I got started. This was a good decision. With racks, pedals and lights it weighed 31 pounds, almost twice what my Trek Madone weighs, but I found that the weight did not matter. I compensated by limiting the weight of the cargo in my panniers. For example, I only brought one pair of underwear; I carried a three pound tent and a sleeping bag the size of a football. I did not weigh the bike loaded down but it probably weighed 60 pounds. Boy, could I fly down hills!
I based my route on the book Cycling the Pacific Coast, a guide that I found on Amazon.com. It got me started but on the road, other riders were using Adventure Cycling maps. These are touring maps that are available from www.adventurecycling.org. They are state of the art and keep you on country roads and off of the highways. Everything a cyclist could ever want to know is on an adventure cycling map. Every few days I would stay in a hotel. Nevertheless, this is a kind of vacation where you can actually save money. A couple I met who were riding from Vancouver, B.C. to Argentina had gotten all the way to Monterey spending only three dollars on accommodations! 
Food was an interesting challenge. I would get up at 6:00 am, make a light breakfast of oatmeal then ride for an hour or two typically stopping at a small town café for pancakes and eggs. The carbo loading made for a good day however I would also munch on peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and bananas as I rode. I would often eat four or five of each before I got to my next camp. By 3:00 PM I would decide where I was going to stay and then I would find a store close to the end of the day's ride and buy dinner and a beer or two. I had lost 20 pounds training for this trip but my weight stayed the same for the month that I actually toured. One thing I learned is that a peanut butter and jelly sandwich during a century ride is better than a steak at the Ritz.
There were many days of spectacular scenery. The San Juans were a unique mixture of rural farmland in a maritime setting. I rode by a farm and then would come to a point where killer whales (orcas) swim by. Along Willapa Bay, I rode up to a herd of elk. Since I was on a bike, I was gliding along silently so they could not hear me approaching. They were only 10 yards away from me before they realized I was there. They bolted for the nearby woods crashing through the trees and shrubs.
The central Oregon coast was surprisingly gorgeous. As you see from the photos, the days were bright and crystal clear. I could see for miles over the 
ocean. I also rode along the Avenue of the Giants. The 32 mile stretch was awe inspiring. The canopy formed by the giant trees covered the sky so I was able to put my sun glasses away that day. I even rode my bike through the drive through tree.
Big Sur was the climax of the trip. It is a real challenge trying to put the experience into words. I was on a road cut into cliffs that are hundreds of feet above the coastline. Along the edge of the coast in the shallows were boulders, many the size of sky scrapers & larger. They continued on and on for over 50 miles. It must be one of the most beautiful places on earth. This may have been the best day of riding in my life.
The biggest challenge of the trip came when I strained my Achilles tendon just outside of Tillamook. I was crossing a narrow bridge and had to sprint in order to get off of it before a car came along. Shortly after that I had to climb 800 feet to get over Cape Lookout. The two events were a little too much and my ankle became so tender that I was trying to pedal with one leg. For a day I thought the trip was over. In order to keep going I adjusted the clips that attach my shoes to the pedals so that the pedal contacted the shoe at the arch rather than the ball of the foot. This reduced the strain. I also rode lightly for two days and lucky for me, I was able to continue.
I rode alone. Although I had tried to recruit co-riders, no one was able to get away from their work for that long. Riding alone probably worked out better anyway. It gave me a lot of flexibility regarding when and how far I rode. It also made me realize that living amongst strangers for nearly a month was nothing to fear. Almost everyone I met was kind, generous and friendly. Stranger cheered me on, offered directions and shared beers. Security was a big concern when I was planning the trip but it never became an issue during the ride. It’s funny, but I was never lonely during the trip. 
I averaged 85 miles per day with my shortest day of 55 miles and the longest 133 miles. By the time I reached the border with Mexico, I had gone 1974 miles. The time on the bike was incredible. I did my sightseeing while I rode. Every day was unique and every day was incredible. I shared a campsite with a young man who was cycling with his dog. The dog, a 65 pound bull terrier (like Spuds McKenzie) rode in a trailer. The dog treated the trailer like a dog house sleeping in it when not up and about. I also met two cycling surfers. They were pulling a trailer with two surf boards on it. They would bike for a day, stop and surf for a day then ride to the next beach.
I am so happy that I did this. I now have wonderful memories formed by immersing myself in the most beautiful scenery in the world. I also got the satisfaction of planning something that was challenging and having it turn out well. I have 100 pictures that I love and I made a new friend on the trip. It was an experience that I will always cherish.
